Wicked Whimsy

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Practical quality – what is it, and why is it important?

It’s something I’ve been thinking about a lot lately. My theory is that there’s such a thing as “practical quality” when it comes to clothing/shoes. A better way to put it is the “quality plateau” – after a certain price point, the quality of the materials and construction doesn’t increase enough to warrant the corresponding price increase. More expensive doesn’t necessarily mean more durable. Example? Do you need the most expensive leather to make a quality pair of shoes? No. Chances are, the most expensive leather might be so soft and delicate you can rarely wear the shoes anyways!

So, what are you paying for when you buy, for another example, a really expensive pair of shoes? Let’s break it down, using Fluevog, which I consider a mid-priced line (in the big picture – I know they’re still very pricey to a lot of people), and Alexander McQueen. Not because I want to pick on poor McQueen – I salivate over his shows as much as anyone else! – just because he’s the first example to come to mind.

Design:

Fluevog ($359) on the left, McQueen ($874) on the right!

I’d say they’re very evenly tied regarding design, although obviously that’ll depend on personal taste. We all know what McQueen’s aesthetic tends toward: the macabre and avant-garde. To be fair, he has his share of rather dull shoes as well. Fluevog has some pretty dowdy shoes, and the heels they’re most famous for – the Minis – aren’t my favorites at all. But they’ve also got totally droolworthy shoes like the above shoes, Berlin Mittes, Coffee Arabicas, and everyone’s favorite – the LA Silverlakes (or her knee high sister, the LA Melrose).

Construction:

Fluevog: Fluevog shoes are handmade in small runs with high quality materials, at small factories that have great safety records. For the most part, the factories are in rural communities and are an important part of their economy. The workers are paid higher than minimum wage, get 1 1/2 hour lunch breaks, and have good benefits/insurance packages.

McQueen: The only information I can find anywhere is that they’re made in Italy. I’m going to assume, because of the price of the shoes, that they’re made by people being paid a decent wage, who get lunch breaks and all that nice jazz. But they might not be at all – check out this post at VueSociety about how some designers will have the uppers made in China & then have the soles put on in Italy, to justify the “Made in Italy” stamp. Most or all of his shoes have a leather sole. Leather soles seem to be a matter of some debate among shoe fanatics. I’ve heard leather soles are better because that means the shoe can be resoled (although, as far as I know, there’s nothing keeping other shoes from being resoled). I’ve also been told that leather soles are worse because they’re more vulnerable to the elements.

Comfort:

Fluevogs are known for their comfort, and I can personally attest to that. I’ve never worn more comfortable heels. I can’t seem to find any information about McQueen shoes and comfort; there are some pretty high heels, but most have platforms in the front, so maybe they’re not so bad.

Price Range:

(these are normal retail prices, sale items excluded)

Fluevog: $145 to $549 (for the Body Part boots – which are part of a special line that runs higher than normal). Most fall between $200-350.

McQueen: $489 (for a pair of basic flats) to around $1,200.

The verdict? As always, make your own decisions – but I don’t see enough difference in anything besides the marketing/branding to justify the price gap.

Am I suggesting that designers need to drop their prices? No. It would defeat the purpose of a luxury item and probably piss off their target market (because the people who are going to drop that much money on a pair of shoes specifically want something that most people can’t get; the money is used as a barrier). I’m saying that as a consumer, it’s a good idea to be aware of what exactly goes into $1,200 shoes and know that you’re paying as much for the label as anything else.

The best thing you can do to increase the quality of your wardrobe is take great care of what you have. Let your clothes air-dry if you can. Regularly condition, clean, and polish your shoes. A closet full of mid-range items that have been well taken care of should do you just fine!

A few closing notes so I don’t get an angry mob with torches & pitchforks coming after me:

• Indie designers are exempt from most of this; it’s generally a lot harder for independent designers to have a decent profit margin and so their clothes might end up higher priced than mass-market clothing of similar quality. When I have the money, I much prefer to support smaller businesses & designers.
• I’m not trying to make anyone feel guilty for buying expensive things. It’s your money and you should, of course, do whatever you damn well please with it.
• And of course, if you want to buy something , consider it a work of art, and never wear it, then feel free to do so. I know many people would argue that I’m missing the point here, that designer clothes are art, etc. etc. My opinion? Clothes by their very nature were made to be worn, and to make unwearable (or nearly so) clothes or shoes in the name of art is pretty f’n pretentious. And by unwearable, I don’t mean “too loud” or any of that nonsense, I mean literally unwearable in normal day to day life, without breaking an ankle or something ripping.

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